On a high plain, surrounded by stark, eroded hills, the modest city of Zanjan makes the perfect base for wider explorations. The architectural wonder of Soltaniyeh is nearby, while the battered hoodoos of Behestan Castle and the bizarrely striped Colourful Mountains lie further afield. Enticingly scenic roads radiate to Khal Khal and the Caspian, the subterranean delights of the Katale Khor Caves, and the superbly lonely Takht-e Soleiman ruins. Zanjan’s moment of infamy came in 1851 with a bloody siege ordered by Persian Prime Minister Amir Kabir. The resulting massacre was part of the relatively successful campaign to crush the nascent Baha’i religion. Baha’ism had only broken away from Islam three years before, but it was spreading much too rapidly for Tehran’s liking.
The city lays claim to an excellent covered bazaar, some very attractive mosques, and several quirky museums. The extensive Katale Khor cave system, rated by locals as the best in western Iran, is 150km south of Zanjan, off the Soltaniyeh–Hamadan road near Garmab. Less touristed than the more famous Ali Sadr caves, which it is thought to eventually join, Katale Khor has 3km open to the public and another 4km available for experienced cavers. There are six recorded levels and a visit takes one to two hours. There’s no public transport to the site; hire a taxi.
This wild-looking, incredibly eroded, cave-ridden mesa soars above (or, more accurately, falls into) the Qezel Owzan river in the ribbed and riven badlands 120km northwest of Zanjan. Reduced to a collection of tottering hollow hoodoos, the mesa’s human-made caves were part of a Sassanid-era fortress. You’ll need a full day’s car hire from Zanjan to explore the area properly. The closest town is Mahneshan, 14km to the north.
Rakhtshor-khane, a traditional Qajar subterranean wash house full of female mannequins, in the clothing of the era, showing how it used to be done. There’s also a small garden courtyard and an above-ground workshop where people make elf shoes.
