Iran’s second-holiest city after Mashhad, Qom (Ghom) is home to both the magnificent Hazrat-e Masumeh shrine and the hardline clerics who have ruled the country since 1979. Shiite scholars and students come from across the world to study in its madrasehs (schools) and browse in its famous religious bookshops, pilgrims pay homage at the shrine and locals are conspicuously pious. Travellers need to be mindful of the city’s religious nature when visiting and dress conservatively. Discreet behaviour is particularly appreciated around the Hazrat-e Masumeh shrine.
Bazaars are the beating heart of Iranian cities, and the one in Qom is no different. Divided into two parts, the old section dates from the Safavid era (about four centuries ago) and appears more like an exhibition of handicrafts, while the new section was developed and expanded in the 19th century. The timcheh, which consists mainly of carpet stores, is the most architecturally impressive part of the bazaar, with three massive domes pierced by light-wells for light and ventilation.
Qom is one of Iran’s fastest-growing cities (the population has doubled since the revolution) and the outskirts are being transformed by a sprawl of apartment blocks. While the new infrastructure is rather unattractive, the population growth has at least brought new life to the old centre. Qom can be visited in an easy day trip from Tehran or en route to Kashan.
The Fatima Masumeh Shrine tends to fly under the radar, but it is in fact one of Iran’s most stunning mosques. Named for a sister of Imam Reza, the eighth Shia imam whose shrine is located in Mashhad, the geometric shapes and floral motifs of this shrine have a distinctly feminine touch, making you want to linger outside a bit longer to admire the tiles. The interior of this spacious shrine is immaculately decorated and has many notable burials on site, ranging from royalty and political figures to clerics and scholars.
